Also I feel the toe space is a bit too narrow. Steve. I could fully close the lacing with the shoes still being a little loose with 9E. Asics GT2000: 11 - Perfect fit. Although the quality is nothing to write home about, they are incredibly comfortable. I believe shoes like Meermin have a place in Menswear. Carmina Rain: UK 11 (best fitting Carmina last for me) Carmina Inca: UK 11 (too tight across instep) Carmina Forest: UK 11.5 (snug instep) Carmina Simpson: my feet are too wide for this last. I would instead recommend taking this last TTS and just wearing thick socks as sometimes it can run small. Notes about feet: Low instep, low arch, wide-ish with somewhat splayed toes. Also, as this pair is the kind of a pair of is, this hasn't been in the easiest environments. Meermin shoes are affordable but also very sturdy and premium-grade. Low arches but not flat. * **Viberg 2030** 8 snug but not too tight, * **Viberg 2030** 8.5 a bit loose in the heel in CXL, comfortable when laced tightly all the way up, * **Winson OLD Edlyn** EU41 sized on advice of Emil via foot measurements, a touch short. It's a strange feeling last, but I can make it work. My understanding is that AE is below the likes of Crocketts in terms of make, but thats based on the input of people like Jesper who know more about them than I do. The brand focuses on doing the basics well and I recommend it to every friend of mine that wants to try goodyear welted shoes for the first time. Theyre all Spanish except Septieme Largeur, which is French but made in Spain. I dont know anybody who owns a Mont Blanc wallet, but I know plenty of people who own Mont Blanc pens, and I dont see that ever changing. Nice article , but why the article call these cheap shoes? Onderhound New Buteo 41.5: Volume is a little high, but the width and arch length are bang on. In terms of quality, yes Trickers will be better and worth the money I think. Particularly for certain watches perhaps, although less likely for certain muted bespoke suits which might fit better but wont look more expensive than a good of-the-peg one. Still being worn with same sock thickness as the other Parkhurst last. REGULATION AND US. Although the vast majority of my formal clothes over the last 40+ years have been bespoke, I have never seen or felt the need to go bespoke on shoes. But the key issue from my point of view is that AE offers 10 widths across all the models in their portfolio, where none of the Northamptoners are able to offer more than 2 and only for very few of their models. Start-up brands are often good on marketing, on styling and photography. If your size in a Viberg last is a bit snug I would consider sizing up for GYW. 511 last 10D: Bad fit. I bought a pair of suede oxfords some months ago and I have found them to be fairly good for their cost. Ive never heard of it or tried it, and probably wouldnt in the future as I say at the top of this most, this isnt my area of expertise really. I have only handled and tried on two pairs (a wholecut on the Rain last and an unlined loafer) but my impressions are fairly consistent. And sorry for the long post, whenever I come across such I wonder whether the guy is a bit insane, but then, passion, what? It may not display this or other websites correctly. We start at the top end of that market, and then gradually work our way down. 11D would've been better out of the box but CXL is very forgiving. No stretch sir. Though, unsure of sizing, thanks. Rancourt 115 9D: Great fit. Im really tempted to name and praise (as opposed to name and shame! Do you think there is a difference in comfort? Im a regular customer of both Jermyn Street shops and the customer service Ive consistently experienced over many years has been exceptionally good, significantly better than Ive experienced in some other, more expensive establishments that will be well known to readers of this blog. Particularly I struggle with the heel which I find very wide with most English makers. Perhaps Alden, which usually has the option for lots of widths? He was also involved in the development of the TLB Artista range, so there is a financial relationship with all of those brands. Carminas are more expensive than Meermin shoes. I brought a pair of black Oxford brogues in a classic last for 109 that were from the previous season and a pair of Dark Leaf Calf Oxfords for 150 that had a negligible fault (even the staff had to look it up as it wasnt obvious). My experience with them has been very similar to yours, Felix. Once your account is created, you'll be logged-in to this account. Cork-Injected Midsoles (Extra Comfortable). I have to disagree. Id highly recommend it for more detail all of these brands, particularly on the technical side. Crocketts and Carmina are in there largely for context, as mentioned. They look nice to me, but as I have only been buying shoes from British shoemakers, I am unsure whether their last may look showy or unusual comparison. Id have to say that, based on my personal experience, the C&J shops are one of the great strengths of the company. Rafal hails from Poland and is a shoemaker who creates each pair of shoes by himself. My issue with C&J is that the range of G fits has been reduced significantly. Trickers town shoes, especially the wonderful Belgrave adelaide, top any C&J shoe I have in terms of comfort and build. Im not sure who and why the person you talked with from Barker said anything else, but a quick visit to their website or just a Google will you show you that he or her were wrong. And you could choose a more rounded last, if that was your preference. Youre better off looking at the tannery the leather came from and if it had a recognizable leather name (cxl for example) but even within that there are gradations on the product from the same tannery. AE has excellent customer service to this day. Viberg 1035 8.5: Its a great looking last, heel is massive. For what its worth Joshua, (with plenty of experience of both) I wouldnt necessarily consider C&J a step up from Trickers. Were the shoes more structured I would go with 9.5D. I recently started to be more careful about how I track my wardrobe spending. But I am not a US citizen, at least no chauvinism involved. I realise this may seem like a simple choice, and maybe thats exactly what youll say, but Im only 25 years old and money is definitely a consideration. They are never mentioning it, but the leather is bookbinded. Seems to be a popular thing to write now. I mean, if you give the former a high shine they will likely get more attention than the latter with a lesser shine. Carminas are better than Meermin shoes today because of one major thing: Better Material Quality. I guess I was wondering whether the differences in finer shoes were of this sort, especially because you have said before that you find your Aldens to be among your most comfortable shoes (but maybe that was more about lack of structure than anything else). The quality of the leather and overall construction is superb. First impressions tell us most of what we need to know about certain products. An apron toe penny loafer from Orbans last summer that were on clearance for 60 euros. Interesting that not many people would know that though. very snug in the toes. Rafal hails from Poland and is a shoemaker who creates each pair of shoes by himself. ", Spain 1: TLB, Yanko, Septieme Largeur and Andres Sendra. There are many levels at tanneries, and cheaper brands dont get the same quality or the first selection. All Enzos were tried as oxfords and have comfortable insteps with no gap, * **Fugashin Saigon unknown wholecut last** 8UK comfortable, good instep for oxford, * **Gaziano Girling DG70** 8.5EUK comfortable. Thanks for your efforts! Theyre both very big brands now.. I wear 9EE in AE (65 last) and want to try carminas. Carminas actually have better fits than Meermin shoes. Even though mine are lace-ups, breaking in has actually been very easy and I also feel like they are totally worth the money. They have done a small amount of RTW for a while, its just enlarged recently. I did have a little heel slip in the beginning that went away. However, when I visited meermin pop up in London, I dont think I would ever get a black box calf from them! I have had a very different experience with EG service. A 42 would be too large and a 41 too small. Kenton 10D: Great roomy fit for boots with thick/medium socks; good snug fit for LWB with thin socks/sockless. P-79 last 10D: Excellent fit right out of the box with thick or thin socks. Viberg 2030E 9: Specifically for the Halketts which have a trimmed waist and slight pattern changes these are okay in a half size up with boot socks. Great article I wonder what you think of the dilemma I currently find myself in?.. 9US is too generous, * **Red Wing 8 last (iron ranger)** 8.5D a bit snug on the sides of the mid foot, might've gotten away with 8.5E, * **Rider Boot 42 last** 9D comfortable fit, but lowish instep at the top makes it hard to put them on without shoehorn, * **RM Williams Comfort Craftsman** 8G with a little heel slip, * **TLB Mallorca Alan** 8F UK generous without being overly roomy. Very comfortable, heel is a smidge roomy, but overall an extremely comfortable last. I've come to think of myself as a 10E. Makes buying difficult, much like with Vass. Too tight in the vamp and mid-foot. Thursday Captain 9D: Felt too tight on the instep brand new. Most brands in that price segment have fewer offers for you in terms of lasts. Arch might be a little too aggressive for my right foot, but it should break in more. There's a tiny bit more room at the ball too now. The leather used to make Carmina shoes is better than the leather materials used to make Meermin shoes. Any other leather I handled was absolutely fine! **The older 2040s are tighter, because of the older style of heel pad, if you find it too tight I recommend considering swapping out the heel pads. If you will be ordering from the Trickers website, I suggest going over the fine print. Quality control seems to be non-existent. He replied straight-faced: No, we only use the best full-grain calf for our shoes. Like the arbitrary claim that the soles on English soles wear out more quickly than European ones. I've been told that the forest last is the only one available in a wide, but only in mto. You talk a lot about nicer shoes on PS and how they are much nicer. Fully bespoke shoes including trial pair start from about 550 depending on the exchange rate, and they offer ready to wear / MTO lines of various grades between 65 and 450. Ive only been reading PS for a few months, and I immediately got hooked to the point that I spend my free time reading past articles in order to catch up. Custom ordered these with a combination last of 9.5E toe and 9.5D heel. Simon wrote that it is expensive to add an extra width across all shoes. To be clear, I dont know what they use. Were not aiming to cover the whole market here, by a long way the focus is on cheaper shoes that we would never normally cover on Permanent Style, really below 300. Worth asking. Comfy fit. There might be a wide heel seat, for example, but then even some expensive English shoes like John Lobb have that.. Stitchdown boots you will get more lateral give across the width of the boot, and with welted products you'll get more . Luckily it did a tiny bit making it bearable, but damn they are still uncomforable I have to admit. Ive thoroughly enjoyed this article and PS in general. Crownhill is decent stuff as well, especially the material level for the price is good. This article, then, is an analysis of the market for mens dress shoes below the Crocketts Handgrade level - all informed by Jesper. For me, wearing pair of good bespoke shoes feels much better and more comfortable in many regards, also when compared to premium Goodyear welted brands. Some heel slip until broken in. Really? second chance thread), Carmina Green Shell Cordovan Frankenstitch Captoe Jumper Boot 10.5eee(uk) detroit last, RM Williams Comfort Craftsman or Carmina (Rain Last) Chelsea, *SOLD* Carmina Bourbon Shell Cordovan NST boot 8UK Forest last, Alden Color 4 Shell Cordovan Chukkas - Barrie last size 10 D, Alden x Leffot Saddle Shoe - Unglazed Cigar Shell Cordovan and Snuff Suede - 8D Barrie Last. I would note that although the shoes I own have tight sole stitching, C&J models without pinking on the soles (for example, the Sydney with rubber soles) are noticeably less sleek. I can see a grey being useful, but that's about all probably. I recommend .5 down and just accepting that it is a wide pattern. The vamp was tight but not painful, toes were fine. I have really been liking many of your posts for this season. At first glance, you should be able to tell, to an extent, if a pair of shoes would be a good fit for you or not. First thing I noticed is that they write the shoe runs large and one should buy half a size smaller than usual. Toe box is comfortable but not a lot of play, heel is well locked in. Out of the two shoe brands, however, Carmina shoes come forth as the best shoes in this discourse. 6.5D Carmina: 5.5: UK: Forest, Robert - 5.5UK: 6.5D Carmina Forest: 5.5: UK: 5.5UK with a smidge of heel slip: Maybe a little wide fitting but enjoyable and no breaking in required. Benzein Parang 42: Its a bit short, but wearable. I have a pair of 9D shell chukkas that fits well, but after 2 months still has a little heel slip. Both these shoes are true to size, but Carminas are however more fitting and properly sized than the Meermin shoes. My Yanko boots I enjoy in the winter months here in New Zealand (about now). He was told they had changed, as you see seem to have observed as well. Jesper concludes by saying: You cant expect to get a really premium shoe for an entry-level price, and you shouldnt get too excited at places that promise that. Brannock Size: 10D/E with flat feet and extra wide around instep. No one see this though, its only for yourself. Id be interested to see a reference for the made in Asia comment in the article. I have some upcoming which Ill be updating once arrived. Predictably, this European company uses European sizing, which is normally a full size down from your Brannock (or "true") size. Boot socks. The Shell Cordovan, non-Alden Shoe and Boot Thread, Find reviews, recommendations, tips about and appreciation of fine cutlery here. As you mentioned, the C&J sole is flat and not very detailed, but the leather is thick but very supple and significantly more comfortable than any other shoe I have over the course of the day. I will refrain from commenting on fit unless people think it will be helpful. Really appreciate the advice. Ive mostly moved to bespoke now due to my weird feet, but I do own a pair of Morjas suede chukkas that I use in bad weather. Really useful local knowledge, thanks David. Apart from the differences in material qualities, a major difference between Carmina shoes and Meermin shoes is the price tags that these shoes are sold and distributed for. For reference, previous sizing threads 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 for extra data points. Not sure I'd feel the same today. The heel stiffener is a piece of the internal structure of the shoe, which sits inside the heel cup. Even with a tongue pad, facings fully come together throughout the instep. Note: I have pretty weird feet, slim waist, slim heels, slightly high instep, and low volume. Thats a point worth emphasising. However to their credit, Loakes customer service was excellent. It's been a while, but I didn't have any complaints after break in. Id put them at around Barker/Loake territory, perhaps slightly better. The only issue is that the classic range is very stiff, and hard to break in. The soles on the Trickers town shoes wear down quickly. On an industry level, theres also more variation among the Spanish brands, not least because a lot of them are younger, changing, and trying to fit into an increasingly competitive market. *** Viberg GYW fits just a touch smaller than Stitchdown. Red Wing Postman: 10D, wore for a year but sold due to low volume toebox. Customers get a lot of value from buying Carmina shoes because these fashionable shoes are really sturdy, durable, and long-lasting in the long run. Somewhat splayed toes been very similar to yours, Felix their credit, Loakes customer service was.. Have done a small amount of RTW for a year but sold to... The forest last is a difference in comfort a little too aggressive for my right,. Being a little heel slip usually has the option for lots of widths nicer shoes on PS and how are... 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